Benjamin Leroux BENJAMIN LEROUX Volnay 2020

Description

BENJAMIN LEROUX Volnay 2020 is bright and vivid, almost sharp with a great freshness in such a hot year. It shows some of the most interesting qualitative peaks of the denomination. Only 20% new oak and this is barely noticeable, with the purity of the fruit and the emerging light touch of Leroux shining through. Benjamin Leroux, it is whispered in reverent tones, could well succeed Henri Jayer’s role as Burgundy’s emblematic winemaker. In the words of Allen Meadows, Ben (still in his 40s) is “extremely thoughtful. . . positively brilliant. . . one of, if not the most gifted, young winemakers in all of Burgundy.” Formerly régisseur at the prestigious Domaine des Epeneaux (Comte Armand), Benjamin Leroux creates wine not only from some of the vineyards he owns, but also from carefully selected growers with their aim of growing high-quality grapes. He exercises maximum control over growers, insisting (as much as possible) on organic and biodynamic practices. The focus remains on high-quality vines and grapes rather than merely prestigious appellations, although there are, to be sure, many of these in his catalog as well. Although he has mastered the technical elements of winemaking, Benjamin embraces a philosophical view of his craft and of his art. Although he follows the rhythms and practices of biodynamics and highlights its benefits, he insists that it is a philosophical approach and not a religious dogma. As a result he deviates from any treatment that conflicts with his perception of harmony with nature. He therefore avoids copper altogether, even though it is allowed in both organic and biodynamic practices. Likewise, Ben remains unimpressed by the fact that his wines earn critical praise and scores. Rather, Ben insists, he strives to make wines that, when a group of friends sit down and open a bottle, there is a shared sense of good times, a bonhomie.